“Do-It-All” Bike Build Guide
Drivetrain
The drivetrain of any bike is important to set up for the type of riding you’re going to be doing. With a “do-it-all†type bike you want to spec out your drivetrain so that it is versatile enough to climb and descend well. You also want to choose parts that are strong enough to take abuse while being weight conscious. Tailoring your drivetrain to your style of riding as well as the terrain you’ll be riding is one of the keys to having a truly versatile bike. Once you know what you’re going to be doing with your bike you’ll be able to more easily choose gear ratios, crank length, and whether or not you’ll need a front derailleur.
Cables:
Cables are a pretty easy purchase. Most people run the stock cables that come with their shifters. If you’re looking to get aftermarket cables to lighten your bike and get some better feel there are some decent choices available.
- Jagwire - Jagwire’s cables are stainless steel but they are coated with black Teflon which provides easier shifting due to reduced friction.
- PowerCordz - We reviewed a set of PowerCordz earlier. Powercordz are very light and won’t corrode or get bent like metallic cables. For more info on the benefits of PowerCordz check our review.
- Stock/Generic Cables - Shifters usually come with cables included with the product. There is nothing wrong with running stock or generic cables over aftermarket. The benefits of running more expensive aftermarket cables for this build is up to the rider to decide if it’s worth the extra cost.
Cassette:
Cassette choice is important to choose carefully as this determines how wide of a range of gear ratios you’ll be able to use. By using a road cassette your gear ratios are tighter allowing you to more finely choose a suitable gear. A road cassette also gives you better clearance and less chain length but doesn’t offer the climbing gears of mountain oriented cassettes. By selecting a mountain cassette with larger tooth counts on the low end you’ll have an easier time climbing hills.
Shimano Ultegra CS-6500 - The middle ground choice for Shimano road cassettes is the Ultegra model. It offers lightweight performance with a median price. The cost of buying Dura Ace is not worth the weight savings for this build but if you’re looking to save a little money for other parts you can go with 105.
Shimano Ultegra CS-6500- Shimano XT CS-M760 - For those looking for a Shimano cassette with larger low gears for climbing the CS-M760 is a good choice. If you’re looking to lose weight XTR can be used but the weight savings come with a hit to your wallet.
- SRAM PG-970 - The PG-970 isn’t the lightest cassette SRAM offers but there are a lot of gear ranges to pick from. The weight penalty over the PG-990 and PG-980 isn’t that much and the price is lower. You will need to consider that you might see a little gouging in your freehub body if it is made out of aluminum due to the cassette load. The PG-990 and higher-end road cassettes have a carrier that disperses the load over the entire freehub body preventing it from gouging.
Chain:
Your chain choice should be relatively painless. Most riders don’t experience problems with chain durability and are relatively a “set it and forget it” component.
KMC X9SL - The X9SL is one of the lightest chains on the market. Some of its features include hollow pins, lightened plates, and X-SP. X-SP is KMC’s stretch-proof treatment of the pins and plates that allows the chain to be less susceptible to wear. This enhances the durability and reliability of the chain by keeping foreign material from getting into the chain bearings.
KMC X9SL- Shimano CN-7701/CN-HG93 - If you’re looking for a Shimano chain the CN-7701 and CN-HG93 make good choices. The CN-7701 is a Dura Ace/XTR level chain and the CN-HG93 is a Ultegra/XT level. The price and weight difference between these two chains is negligible, so pick your preference.
- SRAM PC-971 - If you’re more interested in keeping your drivetrain SRAM based the PC-971 is the chain you should look for. SRAM offers the higher-end PC-991 in standard and hollow pin versions for those looking for something a little lighter.
Chainguide:
Using a chainguide is important for keeping your chain from coming off while riding over rough terrain as well as keeping objects from damaging your chainring. There are several chainguide manufacturers that make high quality guides and parts. You shouldn’t have a hard time selecting one that offers the amount of chainring coverage and options to fit your bike. Most offer models that fit frames with ISCG tabs as well as those that don’t have tabs.
E13 STS/32 Special/DRS - e.thirteen has multiple chainguides that will work well for this application. If you’re looking for more of a trail set up with dual front chainrings the DRS is the way to go. If you’re not looking to run dual chainrings but would still like a small front chainring the 32 Special is your ticket. For those looking for a taller chainring up front the STS is your match.
E13 STS- MRP System 3 - MRP’s System 3 is a great choice for a chainguide. It features a dual roller setup with a antifriction guide. The System 3 is set up to handle chairings from 36-40t, which should suit a vast range of riders.
- RaceFace Bash/Chainguide - RaceFace created their own chainguide and bashring setup for those looking at products of the Canadian persuasion. The Chainguide and Bashring are purchased separately and allow the guide to be ran without a bashring for lighter weight.
Crankset:
The type of riding you will be doing on your “do-it-all” bike should be considered when selecting your crankset. If you’re planning on doing more descending than climbing generally a 165mm or 170mm crank length can be used to allow for better clearance over obstacles and less weight. However, with a shorter crank you aren’t able to develop the torque that you can with a longer crank. 170mm and 175mm cranks work better for those looking to climb more effectively. These are general guides as inseam measurements come into effect and you’ll have to do some extra research to decide what length would be best suited for you.
- RaceFace Diabolus - This crankset is heavy duty but weighs less than you’d think. They offer the Diabolus in 165, 170, and 175mm lengths and bottom bracket shells of 68/73, 83, 100mm so you shouldn’t have a hard time getting these cranks to fit your bike.
- Shimano Saint - The venerable Saint has incredible strength, sleek looks, and light weight packaged together to form a pretty potent package. The Saint too has lengths of 165, 170, and 175mm and is available in single, double, and triple chainring configurations. Both 68/73 and 83mm bottom bracket versions are available.
Truvativ Holzfeller OCT - The 2007 Holzfeller OCT is all new for 2007 with hollow crank arms and upgraded bottom bracket bearings. The OCT is one of the lightest freeride and downhill oriented cranksets available but still has the ability to take daily abuse and offer more stiffness and strength than its competitors(per SRAM’s testing). The Holzfellers are available in a single ring DH setup or as a dual chainring with bash guard setup.
Front Derailleur:
If you’re looking to run a dual ring setup for a bike thats able to climb these two suggestions should work well.
- Shimano XT FD-M76X - Shimano’s middle ground on front derailleurs belongs to the XT line. XT should work out well for a variety of applications as Shimano has created top swing and down swing versions with top and bottom pull.
- SRAM X.7 - If you’re going with a SRAM based drivetrain the X.7 should work fine for most people offering high and low clamp models.
Front Shifter:
Each person has their own opinion on which is best and we have no interest in trying to sway anyone. Go with what feels right to you. Mid-level shifters offer a good balance between weight, cost, and features. Most mid-level shifters have trickle down technology that makes them highly effective without the price tag of the top end models.
- Shimano XT SL-M760 - The XT M760 offers a 2-way release for shifting gears. This allows the rider to push or pull the levers in order to change gears during different riding situations.
SRAM X.9 - The X.9 shifter from SRAM offers riders the shift feel they’re used to while incorporating features from the X.0 model. The X.9 front shifter works with both SRAM and Shimano front derailleurs for maximum compatibility.
Housing:
Housing is much like the cable selection above. Most riders will use stock housing which is fine for most riders. Those looking to save a little weight or add some bling have several aftermarket options.
- I Link - I Link is a lesser well known housing product than Nokon but it offers many of the same benefits. I Link differs from Nokon in the way that it is constructed creating less hassle during installation. I Link is also lighter than Nokon but it is not as readily available for purchase.
- Jagwire - For those looking for a more traditional aftermarket housing product Jagwire has you covered. They offer several different mountain oriented kits that perform well and are priced right.
Nokon - Nokon’s housing is a light durable alternative to standard housing. It allows for tighter routing curves and protects your cables from dirt and grime. Installation can be troublesome for users but the end result is usually worth it. Nokon is also available in a range of colors to add a little bling for those so inclined.
Pedals:
The pedal market is alive and well. There is an endless array of options available. If you’re looking for a specific color, shape, thickness, or weight there is a product out there that should work for you. Our suggestions round up some of the best options available.
- Specialized Lo Pro Mag II - The Lo Pro Mag II’s are a nice thin pedal like the Straitline’s but are lighter in weight because they are made of magnesium. The Lo Pro II’s offer replaceable pins like the other pedals as well as a tunable oversized axle to allow for different pedal spin resistances.
Straitline - The Straitline pedal has some great features and awesome looks. Its thin profile allows for greater clearance over rocks and hazards. The pins have two different shapes allowing the rider to tailor the grip level to their liking and are easier to replace because they require a socket instead of an allen to install (no more trouble with deformed pins). The pedals themselves are built to last due to their redundant axle seals and polymer bushings instead of standard bearings.
- Wellgo MG-1 - The MG-1 is very light weight due to its concave magnesium platform and comes in 3 different colors. It uses pretty standard construction and has replaceable pins.
Rear Derailleur:
When choosing a rear derailleur you’ll want to make sure that it will work with your entire drivetrain selection. This is especially important if you select to use a road derailleur. Using a road derailleur or shorter caged mountain derailleur offers a variety of benefits that might fit your needs provided the derailleur you choose can take up all the gears you selected. A road derailleur offers snappier shifting, a shorter as well as tighter chain, and more clearance from rocks or debris on the trail.
Shimano Ultegra RD-6600-SS - Shimano’s Ultegra rear derailleur offers great shifting performance as well as light weight. If the Ultegra is a little more pricey than you’d like, Shimano’s 105 model is a very adequate alternative that is easy to buy and replace if necessary.
- Shimano XT RD-M760-GS - If you’re looking for a mountain oriented rear derailleur vs the previous mentioned road models the XT M760 is a good choice. It offers middle class weight and affordable price. Saint could be suggested here as well but the weight penalty is too great for serious suggestion.
- SRAM X.9 - SRAM’s X.9 derailleur is a defacto standard part that has proven itself year after year. With 3 different cage lengths to choose from the X.9 is highly versatile.
Rear Shifter:
Mid-level shifters offer a good balance between weight, cost, and features. Most mid-level shifters have trickle down technology that makes them highly effective without the price tag of the top end models. When choosing drivetrain choices SRAM and Shimano equipment are not typically compatible.
Shimano XT SL-M760 - As mentioned before the XT M760 from Shimano incorporates a 2-way shift release allowing riders the choice of pushing or pulling to shift gears.
- SRAM Attack - If you like the way SRAM shifters operate but want to run a Shimano rear derailleur the Attack is your shifter. Who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too?
- SRAM X.9 - X.9 is once again the quintessential favorite for SRAM lovers. X.9 now borrows a lot of the features from the X.0 product making it a very easy choice.
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